This was my first mechanical upgrade. I decided to do this as my brake rotors were slightly warped and my brake pads were at just under 50%. The stages of the upgrade include:
Finding the right components required the right size components for the car. I found this very helpful forum post which listed all the stock part sizes and part numbers of callipers, pads and rotors for all SW20 models. The Bathurst edition came with the turbo brakes although its naturally aspirated.
I decided to purchase RDA Slotted and Dimpled Rotors for both front and rear, which I purchased from EmpoweredAutoParts in Austrlia. I chose slotted and dimpled since these allow for better cooling. The dimples assist in releasing gases produced and the slots also clean pads, reducing the chances of brake fade. Dimpled is also better than cross-drilled for me as they don't impact the structural integrity of the brake rotors. The rotors have straight vents, I would have preffered the curved vents.
I chose EBC Redstuff for pads, as these are high performance street pads with low brake dust. I have not used them before but have heard good things.
Replace seals, Re-apply grease, replace rear brake piston
This was my first time spray painting. I used Engine Enamel paint by Dulicolor for painting (Primer, Gold colour and Clear Coat). I first used painter's tape to protect the new rubber seals, the pistons, sliding pins and threads. I then hung each part from the garage door rail using nylon string tied to a bolt that had been threaded into each part. This stopped any interference from the string. I then sprayed 3-4 light coats of Primer with 10-15 minutes between coats, then 5-7 light to medium coats of gold paint and finallyy 3-4 light coats of clear coat. I found light coats for the first layers was important as it would dry faster before the next coat. When I first tried, I did heavier coats and found that the paint would not adhere as well.
The MR2 once rolled down my driveway although the handbrake was engaged, which gave me a fright. So I decided to replace the handbrae cables. This required removing several underbody panels. The cable attached to the caliper via pin and R-clip.
A brake fluid was flush was required since air had entered the system when we removed the calipers. It is better to do so regardless since the brake pads and rotors were new.
I have not installed these but I am interested in doing so as they reduce flex in the brake lines, thus improvng pedal feel as the piston displacement is directly related to the fluid pedal displacement without influence by a change in brake line diameter. These are also more durable.